Your 2024 guide to Dubai's top restaurants
Two save the dates: an online group discussion, and the next #ThreeChefsDinner. A mini culinary travel guide. Plus more foodie news.
I have always said we have until end of January for new year greetings. So I hope 2024 has kicked off well for you. I am well and truly back from a much-needed respite with family back home in Cyprus, as well as a five day jaunt to neighbour Malta.
If you’re new to my Substack community, scroll to the end for links to recent newsletters, guides and reviews.
I’ve set the date for the first one-hour group Zoom chat for paid subscribers. Mark Monday 22nd January at 6pm UAE time in your diary, and come armed with your foodie questions. Paid subscribers: you’ll receive an email on Friday with the Zoom link. If anyone else would like to join, there’s still time to upgrade.
And another save the date…
The next #ThreeChefsDinner is on the 5th March with a modern Greek culinary theme. The most requested cuisine to date! If you’re not on my dedicated dining experience database, sign up HERE with your email for an advance alert when the event is ready to book next month.
I’ve been reviewing…
A biggie this month. The ninth edition of my annual top Dubai restaurant guide HERE. A record number of 45 homegrown, locally developed concepts have made the cut. Dubai boasts a matured restaurant scene, dominated by independent, chef-led and owner-operated establishments - something I am proud to champion with my #UAERestaurantsUnite campaign. These gems tick every box in equal measure - food, service, location, interior, atmosphere and value for money – in line with FooDiva’s editorial policy. There’s no room in this inn for imported brands, franchises, celeb chefs, royalty gigs and large chains.
These are restaurants that I have chosen to frequent socially over the last year, as well as those that have scored highly in my personal reviews. They have all consistently impressed across the whole dining experience - and serve à la carte. Very importantly, I always pay the bill. Some I have selected to showcase in my #ThreeChefsDinner dining experiences. Whilst I would love to dine at every single restaurant in Dubai every year, it’s simply not practically possible, or even financially feasible.
Whether you’re a UAE resident or a visitor, this guide is designed as a bucket list round-up to inspire your next breakfast, lunch or dinner. That’s how I use it! Towards the end, I have added my go-to restaurants for delivery.
Paid subscribers of this newsletter will receive this guide as a PDF.
Tell me please, how many out of the 45 have you tried? I am keen to know your favourite haunts, which may just inspire my restaurant outings this year – so please feel free to share.
I’ve been dining at…
A reminder that all meals in this newsletter and on my website always abide by my no-freebies, no-invitation review policy. It’s quite simple - no receipt means no review and no mention in this newsletter.
21grams for the best all-day breakfast menu in town. Order the Brunch Bestie dish, which I named ;)
Bungalo34’s attention to detail across all aspects of the dining experience is second to none. Start off with the warm salmon carpaccio; anchovies; and padron peppers with feta. For mains, order the lightly seared tuna tagliata, and grilled calamari in lemon butter sauce. Walk it all off on Nikki Resort’s beach with a salted caramel gelato from the hotel’s cart.
Lana Lusa for delicious Portuguese morsels including the salted cod with scrambled eggs and matchstick fries. A grander, licensed location will open soon at the new Four Seasons. You read it here first ;)
Nola’s City Walk branch for baked filo-wrapped Camembert, followed by maple-syrup-marinated lamb chops, and culminating with the fluffiest, most pillowy, sugar-dusted beignets in town.
RSVP for escargots doused in garlic parsley butter, and prawn risotto.
More outings continue on my Instagram stories.
I’ve been travelling to…
Malta. Why? A trip down memory lane for my dad whose parents lived there for a while. And 14 years since my last visit, with much changed, obviously. Emirates’ Cyprus route flies on to Malta, so it’s easy to squeeze in a twin-centre holiday. Here’s where we dined across the bijou island. More tips are saved in my Instagram story highlights, along with plenty of sightseeing suggestions.
A tiny Roman trattoria in Valletta’s old town, Zero Sei, for, hands down, the best carbonara I have ever eaten. Apologies to chefs in Lazio. Three sole ingredients for the sauce as it should be: egg, Pecorino Romano and guanciale. With fresh pennoni (large penne). This captured your attention on Instagram with requests for Dubai restaurants serving this iconic pasta. Given the key pork ingredient, we only have a handful. Feel free to leave your recommendations here and I’ll share a list in February’s newsletter. These restaurateurs also operate a pizzeria, renowned for pizza perfection, but time didn’t allow.
Underground wine bars are prolific in Valletta. Trabuxu is owned and operated by a hubbie and wife team, as is their sister bistro. Don’t miss the giant bone marrow. On the wine front, Malta boasts some stellar full bodied reds.
If you’re keen on Michelin dining, then definitely visit one star Noni in Valletta, rather than the hugely disappointing Under Grain. The Brincat sibling owners run the kitchen and front-of-house. Located in a converted bakery, also underground. Seasonality dependent, rabbit and quail are on the a la carte. Tasting menu also available.
For a casual Bib Gourmand experience in Valletta with a daily changing chalkboard menu, book Rubino. In fact, all restaurants should be reserved well in advance.
Malta’s grande dame hotel, Phoenicia, just outside the historic walled city, makes an idealic afternoon tea setting combined with a stroll in the manicured gardens.
A short harbour cruise takes you to the ‘Three Cities’ with Senglea boasting many waterfront bistros including charming Il-Hnejja.
Don’t miss trying pastizzi - savoury filo pastries filled with either peas, or ricotta from the many hole-in-the-wall bakeries scattered across the island. And also pure hot dark chocolate (with no added milk to dilute this rich concoction, thankfully) from chocolatier-cum-café Chocolate District in the old town.
We stayed at the Embassy Hotel, smack bang in the old town within footsteps of all these restaurants and breathtaking rooftop views - but, sadly, very noisy. Iniala House is where I would have preferred to bed, had it not been fully booked or so pricey ;)
I’ve been reading and listening…
The Great Plant-Based Con by Jayne Buxton: I picked up this book when it scooped the investigative accolade at the UK-based Guild of Food Writers annual awards (of which I am a member). A doorstopper of a meticulously researched tome that is well worth your reading time. Many sensationalist media headlines and myths around a plants-only diet from both health and sustainability perspectives are debunked.
I’ve been lucky enough to be interviewed for several podcasts since they became a thing, but none as personal as this one which also dives into my pre-FooDiva journey. For Elisabeth Villiger Toufexis’ travel podcast.
Poll results
From last month’s newsletter poll. I guess that’s why many restaurants are reluctant to change their reservations policy.
You may have missed…
My welcome launch newsletter. A special edition newsletter in support of all things Palestinian - recently updated. The November newsletter - and December’s.
I have updated my most popular culinary travel guide - Cyprus - with my recent discoveries.
I update My Little Pink Lifestyle Book with new finds every month.
A private one-hour Zoom call with me to pick my brains. More info here for F&B industry enquiries - and here for foodie/ diner queries.
I hope 2024 brings long overdue peace to our Palestinian neighbours with an end to this genocide.
A bientôt,
FooDiva. x
I leave you with this snap of a reflection that was begging to be captured in JLT.
