Why I crave more than good food from high-end restaurants.
It's all about the f-word. How Gaggan more than satisfies this craving. Plus several additional Bangkok restaurant tips.
The f-word, fun, has always been an essential fix for me when dining out - from my upscale restaurant tour concept #DineAroundDubai in 2014, with a strapline of ‘fun is the new fine dining’ - to my new dining experiences. For my reviews with a policy measuring on six parameters: food; service; atmosphere; interior; location; and value for money. And for when I dine out socially.
Everything around the plate counts - from making a reservation and the arrival experience - to the meal, the service, the vibe (hopefully fun!) - all the way to settling the bill.
But we all expect different things when dining out; something restaurants have to juggle to retain our custom. Restaurant awards and lists also differ widely in their judging criteria. Unlike Michelin that only rates food, I crave more than good fare from high-end restaurants.
Why?
If dining was solely about the food for me, I would happily always order in, like I do from casual joints when I’m too lazy to cook. What happened post-lockdown? We all rushed out to eat, soak up atmosphere, and socialise. It’s about dining out, not just ‘eating out’.
Not every meal celebrates a special occasion, but dining out at high-end restaurants is a treat, for me. Hence why I am very selective on where I pick - both for my reviews, and for play. The experience starts off at home when I’m deciding what to wear. I blame my first career in the fashion industry. And I really don’t need to dish out more cash on my wardrobe. The moment that eager anticipation fizzles out and dining out becomes de rigueur, you won’t hear from me again.
The hostess’ greeting on arrival is the first impression. The service and front-of-house experience from start to finish should always convey the warmth of hospitality. Like how we greet and engage when hosting visitors at home. The restaurant manager or the maître d’ (bring more of the latter back please) are as important as the chef.
Good food and good service should be a given at all restaurants. But it’s the atmosphere that differentiates, turning dining out into a positively memorable, magical experience. Atmosphere can come from one or many things. The buzz of a busy restaurant. The lighting just right for cosy dining. Round tables that encourage conversation. A playlist that makes you smile. Live entertainment that feeds into the food and service flow. All these things contribute to energy, to intimacy, to novelty - and can upgrade a meal to an experience worthy of my limited time. I know restaurants have ticked the atmosphere box when I’ve had a bloody good time, and can’t wait to return. Life’s too short for stifling, serious dining. A la Cyndi Lauper, I just wanna have fun.
The fourth point is exactly why I have consistently rated Gaggan in Bangkok as my favourite dining experience in the world. From my first dinner at his then flagship in July 2019 for Mr S’ birthday just before it shut shop. To dinner at his then new-ish 14-seater in June 2023 on a press trip. And more recently, last month, over an industry trip. Even at his pop-ups over the years in Dubai at Royal Mirage and Chez Wam. It’s always bloody good fun.
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How does Gaggan tick the fun box?
All 14 covers across an L-shape offer front-row seats overlooking an open-plan kitchen, where dishes are finished off, and curries bubble away. There’s no hiding in a corner banquette here. It’s a well-tuned choreography of staff and guests.
The current dining experience is designed like a play with five acts. Actually it’s more of a concert with Gaggan Anand as the conductor professing his love for music. Five acts equate to five culinary themes: His birth country of India. His home of Thailand. The country he travels to frequently, Japan. Communal cooking. And the grand finale with the fifth act. Whilst the latter offers desserts, he serves something sweet and palate-cleansing at the end of each act.
A total of 25 dishes, the majority of which are one or two bites eaten with our fingers.
In under three hours. No long-winded, torturous dining like some tasting menus.
Gaggan loves to play mind games whilst introducing each dish, like the curry that isn’t a curry. He engages with guests, asking questions and drawing us into an immersive experience. His nose-to-tail philosophy is applied with satire. To avoid time-wasting, his compelling storytelling happens as the food is prepped, so as soon as the dish is served, we are ordered to eat pronto. Especially important for warm dishes.
Many dishes boast both style and substance with technical execution, flavour and presentation at the fore. And a few disappoint with poor cooking and under-seasoning. But, somehow, I can forgive Gaggan and his team of ‘rebels’ for the odd disheartening dish, because it doesn’t deter from the bloody good time that we’re having. And we certainly leave smiling with full stomachs.
In fact by the fourth act, we’re clapping to his personal playlist as each dish is paired to a different tune. And we wrap up the evening dancing by our chairs.
The pairing of nine Champagne, wine and sake tipples is all natural, low-intervention presented snappily by Gaggan’s partner and sommelier Vlad.
The chemistry between Gaggan, his head chefs Fabio and Rahul, and all his rebels is palpable. It’s a well-rehearsed performance.
So how can I summarise dining at Gaggan? Playful. Entertaining. Experiential. Educational (but take his stories with a dose of humour). Rebellious like his ‘Be A Rebel’ slogan. Succinct. It’s all about the f word. Not food, but bloody good fun. Just how I like to dine.
Interestingly, one price for both food with alcohol or non-alcoholic pairing: THB16,000++ (AED1,855). Gaggan himself admits that he makes more money from those not drinking 😜 Dietary requests can be accommodated. Booking info HERE.
Note: As Gaggan just revealed on his Instagram, a new look with an increase to 15 covers, along with a new menu launch in June - when Gaggan will also restrict smart phone and camera usage. Bravo!
Where else to dine in Bangkok
On this industry trip, we were also hosted by chefs Tonn, Pam and the Sühring twins.
I’ve created a Google maps link HERE adding some of my own tried and tasted recommendations where I paid my own way, including hawker stalls, cocktail bars, coffee and tea houses, even some shops thrown in - as well as tips from other foodies - giving you 38 spots in total. That should cover you for a few days 😉
Sühring: An inventive German and broader European tasting menu concept by identical twin chefs Mathias and Thomas Sühring housed in a gorgeous Thai mansion, with Thomas living on site. Just scored its third Michelin star - and, frankly, given Michelin only rates food, was worthy of three when I last dined here two and a half years ago. Favourite dish? When fine dining becomes fun 😋 A bespoke ‘Enleta’ wafer, a childhood treat for the twins, replaces the hazelnut chocolate with foie gras - see photo gallery below. Ten courses start at THB7,800++ (AED900) food only with wine pairing additional.
Potong: Chef Pam Pichaya Utharntharm has converted her family’s century-old Sino-Portuguese building and Chinese herbal pharmacy in Bangkok’s Chinatown into a restaurant and cocktail bar. Across five levels, with a staircase so narrow, I urge ladies to ditch the high heels. The highlight of a 12-course progressive Thai-Chinese tasting menu is the 14-day aged Peking duck. I guarantee it’s the best you will have ever eaten, using all parts of the bird, offal included (hello duck sausage). THB6,300++ (AED727) food only with wine pairing additional.
Nusara: Thai chef Tonn opened this restaurant with his brother and sommelier Tam soon after my 2023 visit, so it’s my first time dining here. Breathtaking views straight across to the Grand Palace and Reclining Buddha from both the patio and indoor tables. My kind of sightseeing. An 11-course tasting menu pays tribute to their grandmother’s cooking with a modern, elevated spin on Thai classics. Fave dish? Crisped shrimp and garuda leaves that you crunch into a blue swimmer crab curry. Fave drink? Easy…the Krug as an aperitif. THB6,990++ (AED805) food only with wine pairing additional.
Le Du Kaan: Another newbie for chef Ton is a rooftop restaurant and sky bar, perched on the 56th floor of Bangkok’s Empire tower. Same skyscraper as Nobu, for what it’s worth. We popped in for a nightcap and eye-popping 180-degree views of Bangkok by night, after dinner at his flagship Le Du nearby.
Louis Vuitton x Gaggan: Gaggan has recently partnered with Louis Vuitton to open a plush eatery in the Bangkok flagship store with witty chef Vix Rathour on the pass in charge of the savoury dishes. We visited after a street food lunch (see further below), so only managed to squeeze in desserts by pastry chef Dej Kewkacha paired with a grower Champagne. Remarkably not from an LVMH Champagne house.
Ms Maria & Mr Singh: Gaggan’s casual Indian-Mexican bistro sits atop his chef’s table. Vibrant, colourful interiors brighten even the dullest of days and always make me smile. The use of spice in both cuisines, albeit on different levels, makes for a compatible marriage, like the fictional couple the restaurant is named after. Every single dish was incredibly flavoursome and well-executed by head chef Hernan Villalva. An all-natural wine list. 11-course, sharing-style set menu THB6,000 (AED692) for two people.
Chai Sukhothai: Gaggan’s favourite pork noodle hawker stall, a Bangkok institution. And unlike Jay Fai, which is a must-visit for her wok-fried crab omelette, you don’t have to queue at this one.
So what about you? What’s important for you when dining out?
FooDiva. x
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I’m neither a wine drinker nor an expert (I’ll have one glass here and there) so I wanted your opinion on the wines they served at Gaggan. I just don’t “get it”. I’m of course referring to the natural wines trend. May be trend is the wrong word?
Good memories from Bangkok in 1996…..