A new restaurant by Palestinian chef Salam Dakkak of Bait Maryam fame.
Sufret Maryam offers a compact menu of elevated Levantine meze. Or perhaps we should describe this cuisine as Shami? Plus an invitation to a seafood soirée for you later this month.
This newsletter is NOT a restaurant review. Why? A couple of reasons.
I broke my rule of visiting new restaurants in their opening month. In line with my editorial policy, I like to give new openings a month or so to settle in and iron out any teething issues. However, I was keen to include in a feature that I wrote for an international publication - and paid Sufret Maryam a visit exactly a month ago. Will share here when published later this year (international consumer mags work three months in advance).
Sufret Maryam is Palestinian owned and operated - and can benefit from as much love and custom (i.e. paying the bill) as we can shower upon them. Here’s an earlier round-up of more Palestinian-owned restaurants in Dubai that you may like to support. So whilst I find it hard to turn off my critical eye and palate anywhere I eat, it’s unfair to willingly dish out criticism to restaurants whose owners, families and friends are suffering from a genocide.
In light of this despicable tragedy, I have made this newsletter free-to-read for all.
A few musings from me to paint a picture of this new restaurant opening. I’m also kind-of testing a potential new format for future restaurant reviews with the headers further below, so would welcome your thoughts. Yay or nay?
But first…
A special invitation-only event is in the works for later this month on the evening of 30th September. I am helping to organise by bringing together chefs and restaurateurs - and I would love to invite those on annual subscriptions, with a plus one. Expect a tasting soirée of premium, sustainably-sourced seafood in a swanky central Dubai hotel. If you’re free and not already a paid annual subscriber, you may like to upgrade by this Sunday 15th September - and I will send through the invitations next week.
Sufret Maryam - concept & food
International accolades from Michelin and World’s 50 Best have catapulted Palestinian chef-owner Salam Dakkak’s Bait Maryam in JLT to stardom. Seven years after opening her first baby, her second-born Sufret Maryam in Jumeirah’s Wasl 51 complex pays tribute to the Levant region with a compact, elevated menu of meze plates - in contrast to the cosy charm and mammoth selection at the OG.
A pause here to flag the use of the words ‘Levantine’ and ‘Levant’ and their colonial adoption. Something I had never considered until I saw chef, cookbook author and historian Bethany Kehdy’s video here - with accompanying article for more context. So will you join me in referencing this cuisine as Shami?
The star dish? Habra niyeh, the beef tartare of the Levant…oops Shami world. “No fat,” our cheeky waiter proudly exclaimed of the hand-chopped meat. A silky, pâté-like texture spreads effortlessly on freshly baked saj flatbread, commonly dubbed handkerchief bread. Top tip: wrap in the home-made pickles ‘makabees’ for some tangy texture.
A novel presentation for all plates. Spot the crushed walnuts and pomegranates hiding in the roasted red pepper ‘dip’ of muhammara. And the ball of shankleesh cheese rolled in za’atar.
The ‘bandoura’ salad of cherry tomatoes and fresh za’atar leaves is drizzled with a rich labneh cream. My only disappointment? A tad too generous on the pomegranate molasses for the chicken livers, and soujuk dishes - as you can see pictured below.
Service
At no point was I recognised. And nor was Salam front-of-house. Intuitive, stellar service from the waiters whose Shami origins add to the authenticity. Zero upselling, fortunately.
Interior
A much grander affair than the intimate original, which soon fills up on a Sunday evening. The centrepiece? A ‘sufret’ communal table that seats 16. A painting of Salam’s mama Maryam graces the statement wall at the entrance, whilst a wood-fired corner oven turns out freshly baked pillowy pita.
Price
Here’s the wallet-friendly bill for two of us, which left us nicely full. As our waiter agreed, we ordered enough.
Location & reservations
Wasl 51 complex, a few steps away from Orfali Bros Bistro. Parking on the Wasl road side streets. There was no availability online for a table, but I did score a booking when I called. I expect due to the ‘soft opening’, Sufret Maryam was holding back tables.
I leave you with endless wishes for a free Palestine 🇵🇸🍉🕊️
FooDiva. x
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Thank you so much for bringing Sofret Maryam to my attention. I cannot wait to try it and support Palestine 🙏🏼